Pain d'épices (Spiced Honey Cake)

If you're like me, you love the comforting and fragrant spices of autumn -- nutmeg, anise, cinnamon, cloves, allspice. I typically make soft gingerbread cake during the holidays as an alternative to pumpkin loaves (although I love those, too).

Pain d'épices (a spiced honey cake) is my go-to recipe for a time I'm looking for those familiar fall flavors yet want a recipe that offers an interesting departure from traditional pumpkin-filled baked goods.

Pain d'épices is found in various parts of France and is a specialty of Dijon (where you'll see it under the name nonnette) and one I always seek out when I'm near there. It translates to "spice loaf" and can be spelled with an "s" on the end indicating it's made with a blend of spices ("épices") or without an "s" if it's made with just one spice ("épice"). It must be sweetened with honey, called au miel ("with honey") if it's at least 50% honey (which it must be to even be called pain d'épices) plus other sugars, or pur miel ("pure honey") if honey is its only sweetener. In France, it's also sometimes made with rye flour.

The recipe I developed has an easy-to-purchase mixture of spices I love, but you can make your own blend, too (be sure to read the Pointers for Success at the end of the recipe). What's more, mine is 100% honey (pur miel), so it has no added white sugars in the batter -- which translates to lots of flavor but without cloying sweetness. (If you use the marmalade, there is sugar in that of course, but it's not part of the batter.) To deepen the flavor, I love to choose a dark, rich honey, and preferably a local and organic one. It also has a touch more sweetness when using the optional warm honey glaze brushed on top just out of the oven.

And -- there are no eggs! This isn't necessarily a common characteristic of pain d'épices, but it's a bonus of this recipe for you. You'll be surprised at how moist and rich the loaf is without the addition of egg. Study the recipe closely, you'll see it contains what I love: minimal and easy ingredients.

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